Kaunas — The Beginning of the Journey

The first city on the list was Kaunas.

Kaunas is the second-largest city in Lithuania after Vilnius. Located at the confluence of the Nemunas and Neris rivers, it is considered one of the most atmospheric cities in the Baltics thanks to its blend of medieval architecture, interwar modernism, and calm student vibe.

The city originated in the Middle Ages as a fortress on the border with the Teutonic Order. The first mention of Kaunas Castle dates back to the 14th century.

Kaunas became especially important during the interwar period. After World War I, when Vilnius came under Polish control, Kaunas effectively became the temporary capital of Lithuania. It was during this time that many of the city’s famous modernist and functionalist buildings were constructed.

Laisvės Alėja

Nutarta: kritinės būklės liepas Laisvės alėjoje pakeis nauji medžiai - Delfi miestai

We began our journey with the city by walking along Laisvės Alėja.

Laisvės Alėja (“Liberty Avenue”) is the main street and symbol of Kaunas. In many ways, it is the heart of the city: a long pedestrian boulevard filled with cafés, shops, theaters, historic modernist buildings, and everyday city life.

The avenue stretches for about 1.6 kilometers and is considered one of the longest pedestrian streets in Eastern Europe. A line of linden trees runs down the center, making it especially green and cozy in summer.

Church of St. Michael the Archangel

The first landmark we encountered on our way was the Church of St. Michael the Archangel.

The Church of St. Michael the Archangel is one of the most recognizable buildings in Kaunas. Locals usually call it simply “Soboras.” The massive church stands at the end of Laisvės Alėja and literally closes the perspective of the city’s main street.

It is a very unusual church for Lithuania: instead of the typical Gothic or Baroque style, it features massive Neo-Byzantine architecture with large domes, columns, and an almost imperial scale. The church was built between 1891 and 1895, when Kaunas was part of the Russian Empire. Originally, it served as an Orthodox military cathedral for the Kaunas Fortress garrison.

Further along, we continued our slow walk down the wide avenue and turned into an unusual courtyard.

Kiemo galerija

For me, this is probably the most unusual and atmospheric place in the city — a must-visit location. It is not a museum in the classical sense, but a living artistic courtyard between residential buildings, transformed into a space of street art, memory, and neighborhood community.

The project was created by artist Vytenis Jakas more than ten years ago. The idea was not simply to decorate the courtyard, but to restore a sense of community and memory of the past.

Before World War II, this neighborhood was mainly inhabited by Jewish families. After the Holocaust and the Soviet period, many stories disappeared. Jakas began speaking with local residents, collecting old photographs, and turning them into murals on the walls.

Thus, an ordinary courtyard gradually became:

an artistic space,
a place of memory,
and a social project against alienation between people.

Bernelių užeiga

Next, it was time to grab something to eat. And how could you visit Lithuania without trying local cepelinai and homemade kvass? Bernelių užeiga is a perfect place for that.

Perkūno namas

Then we headed toward the river and saw an unusual building.

Perkūno namas (“The House of Perkūnas”) is one of the most famous and mysterious buildings in Kaunas. It was built in the 15th century by Hanseatic merchants.

The name is connected to Perkūnas, the ancient Baltic god of thunder and lightning — similar to the Slavic Perun or the Norse Thor.

During a reconstruction in the 19th century, workers found a strange figurine inside the wall. Romantic historians of the time believed it to be a pagan idol of Perkūnas, and the building received the name Perkūno namas. Later historians questioned whether the figurine was truly connected to ancient pagan worship, but the name remained.

Aleksoto funikulieriaus žemutinė stotis

It was finally time for a ride with the wind… or maybe not quite.

Aleksoto funikulieriaus žemutinė stotis is the lower station of the famous Aleksotas Funicular in Kaunas, one of the symbols of the city’s interwar modernist heritage. The station is located at the foot of Aleksotas Hill near Vytautas the Great Bridge and the Nemunas River.

The funicular opened on December 6, 1935, when Kaunas was the temporary capital of Lithuania. It was built to connect the city center with the Aleksotas district on the hill, where university institutes, an observatory, and residential neighborhoods were located.

Aleksoto funikulierius | Atostogos kaime

We ride up to the observation deck above and admire the city from above.